When setting the hair you will need to consider whether volume, lift and curl are required. Hair can be rolled to sit on base or off base, and the wind can be directed to suit the style, or a brick wind can be used to avoid roller and section marks.
On base or off base-angles
The more volume that is required, the more root lift needed; this situation requires on base winding.
When winding the hair to sit on base you must:
- Take the section of hair to be rolled and comb it upwards, straight from the head
- Hold the section at 90° from the head
- Wind the hair downwards from point to root around the roller, ensuring that the completed roll sits on the base of its own section, at the root area.
- Ensure that you wind the hair considering the root direction required, to give maximum support to the style.
If the style you are creating needs less root lift and a flatter look, you should direct your wind off base. This involves dragging the root back, slightly away from the roller base and section. Use a 45° angle and complete the wind with the roller almost sitting on the root of the section below. The roots then dry or cool without creating lift.
The wind choice of winding techniques helps you to create lift and curl, with varied root movement and direction. Changing your roller size enables you to achieve tighter or looser curls.
Setting the hair in the direction in which it is to be styled ensures the root movement falls in line with the desired style result. This method enables you to work with partings – style the hair to one side, creating the look of the style, in the same way you would blow-dry.
Sectioning the hair
You must always section the hair cleanly using a pintail or tail comb, depending on your personal preference. When you are working on long hair, always secure the hair you are not working on out of the way.
You must always ensure you take manageable size sections which are no larger or wider than you roller choice. Small rollers give tighter curls, and medium to large rollers give looser curls, so choose you roller size to suit the required style, taking into consideration the hairs length and density.