Start by cutting the baseline to see how this is done (Please see page the One Length Below Shoulders section).
Start the layer by taking a section at the highest point of the head pulling it up to 90 degrees and cutting to the desired length.
Work the guide from ear to ear pulling up to the required angle.
Please Note – The angle you pull up to determines the amount of layering and the finished look. This ranges between 135 degrees and 180 degrees. This cut is straight up at 180 degrees and is also referred to as basic layering.
Using the same guide add a profile guide, creating four sections.
Take a section through the back of the head next to the central guide; include the guide and pull the section up at 180 degrees, when you see the central guide above your fingers cut to the same length. Using ‘orange segment’ sections continue this process until you reach the guide above the ear. Cross check thoroughly before moving on to the next.
Complete the second back section in the same way. Once this is completed, cross check the whole of the back section before moving on to the front sections.
Now working through the front, take a horizontal section in front of the original ear to ear guide and down either side of the profile guide, pull hair up to guide and continue working to the front of the head.
Please Note – This can be done one side at a time depending on preference.
To tidy the front section pull all the hair forward and cut straight across until you meet with the baseline. This is important as this is what the client will see.
Please Note – This is not forward graduation. If the client requires the front shorter, follow guide for forward graduation (Please see the Forward Graduation section) .
Dry to the desired result before thoroughly checking through the cut. This could include softening or texturising techniques to achieve the required effect. Use the mirror to check the balance and ask questions to ensure the best result.